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The piston stop needs to be tightened so it doesn't move. You shouldn't put much pressure at all on it to stop the piston. I don't recall what spacers for the one shown. The stuff that comes with the Summit kit works on lots of things.

That's not going to clean much. You need to disassemble the carburetor to really clean it.

I've just been using the Yamaha belt. When you say the speed display is short, do you mean the way it doesn't show speed till it's already moving pretty fast? That's some sort of issue with the speedometers on these. All of them do it to some degree from what I've seen (at least older models). If it were belt slip, RPM would increase and you wouldn't be accelerating. If you mean it's not going as fast, then maybe you have an issue with roller or slider weight, the belt is worn too thin, there could be slip or some other CVT issue. Observing RPM would help. If you want it to go fast, then RPM needs to be around the powerband.

@@49ccscoot First of all, thank you for your quick answer, sorry for my English. In your video at 12:30 min, the speedometer stops briefly at 20 and 40 or slows down and only from 60 onwards does it rise evenly to 100. This is also the case for me when I mount the Malossi Vario MHT Next with 16 g weights. If I put the old Malossi vario on it with the same weights, it doesn't work. I took different measuring points on the road, the scooter runs the same speed with both Varios, I think if I didn't have the misfires on the speedometer, I would be faster in acceleration with the new Vario from Malossi until I reach the different speed at my measuring points on the street. The speed increases evenly, it doesn't increase briefly as if the belt were spinning. I have the 2011 model, so I think it has a new speedometer.

@@NF-ze2fo I don't think it reflects anything happening with the engine and CVT for most of us. Your case is an odd one. You can see videos of people with all sorts of setups and the speedometer is unresponsive at low speed when accelerating hard. The speedometer is electronic, so I assume it is a form of lag.

@@49ccscoot Yes, it could also be that he reacts later, so the vario mht next appears to accelerate a little faster and the speedometer doesn't keep up. The speedometer measures normally at the ABS sensor on the rear tire, it's a strange phenomenon, thanks for your opinion.

@@AnX8765nah I’ve seen what scooters can do to a deer, I’ll take the crosswalk lol. But you are right, average space from start of road line to next road line is 40ft, so 160ft behind him or 120ft in front of him is still more than 50. My mistake 👌

It definitely loses the bottom end of the sound. It rumbles more without the insert. It is a little quieter, but not a lot with the insert.

Thanks! Here's a collection of sound clips from the TMAX with the Yoshi : ua-cam.com/video/58MSTfrg1I4/v-deo.htmlsi=rNV8UlOINpPwODX-

You need to secure all motor mount and shock mount fasteners!

These things make me understand why this town put fencing in the median in a lot of areas to prevent crossing. You still see people trying to climb over and under them though. 🤦‍♂

NoMarTireChanger.com

What's the question?

Most Chinese scooters don't have wiring diagrams available specifically for them. There's one here that should be close. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/340/manuals-documents

Thank you bro. I appreciate you.

I would buy it or another racing ignition again. Much more responsive. Other ignitions may have a better curve with less advance at low RPM (safer), but the MVT has the benefit of charging/lighting output.

@@49ccscoot yeah thank you for the reply! And also your videos are really helpful you explain what and how you do things really well! Iv literally binged your videos in 24 hours straight! Did you manage to get the 34mm pwk exhaust temps to stay down in the end? Looking forward to the next update video

@@user-dq5cu5jx9m Thanks! Still working on the PWK. It's not cooperating.

@@49ccscoot wouldn’t recommend getting a pwk carb then? Haha

@@user-dq5cu5jx9m Not my favorite, but this is usually my luck.

Mine runs 120-140F mostly, so 40-55F cooler than 80C roughly. Some bikes have thermostats that try to keep them hotter than that though. That shouldn't cause it to fail on it's own. It may be hot from ignition timing or something else in the setup. You can try to verify timing with a timing light to make sure it's where you think it should be. Definitely make sure squish is set to spec. Good oil supply... I run mine 4oz per gallon or 32:1.

I don't have a thermostat. It's a racing engine too. 70cc 26pwk carb, 115main jet, 32 power jet. Stock ignition with a top performance cdi with a different pre ignition as I red on the manual. Squish is a bit bigger than the factory specs, about 0.1mm bigger If I remember correctly. I use motul 710 racing oil. 1:33. Carb tuning can be off, I might try to take out my power jet and tune it only by main. But if Im honest, I couldn't really tried full throttle spark plug checks, I used my scoot mostly in the city, this happened on my first longer high speed ride. But thanks for your answer! I'm looking forward for any more tips.

@@pepelazy3249 I've taken mine to an industrial park before on a day when most businesses close. It had a long enough road for me to do 1/8 mile runs and slow down. Carried main jets with me and the tools to change them. That was the quickest that I've ever gone through a range of jets for tuning. I use a dragy and I film my runs with a helmet cam that sees my gauges so I can just do the jet runs and then analyze later, but you don't have to have all of that. Dragy has been a great tuning tool for me. Timing from video before that was consistent, but the dragy is amazing and gives more data instantly and very accurately. It can't tell you if the tune is safe, but you can see what works for power easier. Generally a step richer than peak performance is a safe enough tune, but sometimes it gets tougher than that. dragy : amzn.to/3Rxm2Lb (affiliate link)

@@49ccscoot yes for sure this is the easiest method for fine tuning, I've seen that video too. I don't have a dragy but I can mark a 1/8 mile line from start to finish, and than I can measure time, basically the same as yours, maybe a bit more complicated, than just check my phone for the restuls. And from what I have seen in your carb tuning videos, you have problems too finding a jet that works perfect in lower and higher revs too. So I will take my time for this, it isn't a fast process. Thanks for your time. I learned a lot lot from your videos and experience.

@@pepelazy3249 There are free acceleration apps. They are not nearly as accurate as a dragy, but they may be helpful.

GForceMX

Thanks​@@49ccscoot

I have seen potential for quicker times with the 34mm. I've gone quicker than I have before and it's clearly still not working right. That may not say I need a 34mm PWK, but there's some advantage to it vs the 28mm VHST.

I'm thinking you're the person that contacted me on the forum already, but if not that's easy enough to do or my contact info is on my site. I would say to remember I'm a big guy and 300 pounds. We're talking 550 pounds or so of scooter and rider, high center of gravity and can't be launched wide open. I'm not usually 100% in the throttle till 20-30MPH.

With HF and Amazon, taps can be acquired pretty cheap. If you work on much, they're likely to come in handy at some point in the future anyway. JB prob works OK for this, but it may be similar cost to get a tap vs JB.

@@49ccscoot ended up making one and worked like a charm. found a case leak I had no idea I had and also found a leak on my custom welded intake. thanks again

I have thought about it. More seriously some years ago. Since I hit the deer and with I guess diabetes related complications, I get more sore than usual riding longer and don't bounce back from a long day of riding well. Plus I'm too broke to do it. So the idea of paying out more than I can afford to be miserable for a week doesn't make a lot of sense. I tend to think of it as, I can either continue to ride and mod my scoots or I can spend all my money on a week. The small bore rally last year was the first vacation I've taken in 20 years, and only possible because I split everything with Ryan. He had work obligations this year and the bill was just too high for me solo so I didn't make it.

@@49ccscoot "I tend to think of it as, I can either continue to ride and mod my scoots or I can spend all my money on a week" I'm in the same ballpark with you pal. Affording the trip and time away is too much at the moment. I'm in Georgia, if you were to put on some kind of shorter east coast ride, I'd join!

I would look at the CVT first, because it's easier. If not there, probably the clutch.

I ordered fluourescent neon yellow (what the front wheel is), but it's something else because the powder coater forgot what I specified. 🤷‍♂

@@49ccscoot thank you:)

TBH IDK. I'd have to take it apart to look it over, and I can't do that right now. Those bearings can deal with different loads, so it may be that they prefer them on the CVT side. I'm curious now. Why would you need to pull the crankcase apart to swap ignitions?

​@@49ccscootThanks for the reply 🙌🏻 not expecting you to open it on purpose to check about this buddy, asked just in case you already knew. As for the ignitions, was just thinking that would be easier to swap the case half with the rotor plates already bolted to test different ignitions on an engine while its on the dyno, and see which ones had more gains or the differences between them.. Saves some time tunning. Or just to see the differences between them (those that are not programable or have different curves to select). I have a Gilera runner with stage6 mk2 and stage6 rotor, and now building another Runner with a polini evo 3 hyper race, but have an MVT DD 😐 wanted to try the stage6 and just imagined this method would make it easier.

@@joaomelo61 That's what I figured. I guess that would save time if the engine is out of the scooter. I'd think if it were on a chassis dyno, bolted into the scoot, then it would probably be just as quick to swap the ignitions the traditional way. My MVT DD for Piaggio and Minarelli didn't use a keyway for the rotor so you have to set that up anyway. At that rate, you'd need a 2nd crank and the bearings as intended so you could pull the crank and ignition side case half all off together.

TPR 86cc is fun, but not gonna make the power of a 180cc 2T. Here in the US, the 180s are not easy to get and it looks like keeping one going would be expensive. Part of me says go for it to enjoy the big 2T and part of me says just have fun with the smaller engine that parts are more readily available for.

Scooters have got me so used to it enough that now I use both. Standard is easier for me with a lot of things because I'm used to picturing them that way or the lathe has thousandths of an inch on the dial for example. Metric is not my native tongue, but I can have a conversation. lol